Blog Post

Big Skies and Big Brochs

Vikki Brightman • Jan 04, 2021

So what's a broch?

Caithness is often advertised as "the lowlands of the Highlands", with it's big skies and dramatic coastal scenery.  When in Caithness, most people visit the distilleries, the museums and, of course, John O'Groats, but still many miss something which Caithness should be famed for - having over 200 of them spread throughout the county, something which can only be found in Scotland (no, not haggis) and dates back over 2000 years - Brochs.

Dunbeath Broch - or what remains of it.  You can make out where the first floor would have sat on the ledge about half way up the remaining wall.


Brochs are Iron Age dry stone structures which could sometimes be up to 50 feet tall (an amazing feat of engineering considering no mortar was involved).  They are completely unique to Scotland and, for some reason, they are in the biggest concentration within Caithness, with over 200 sites, that are known, with probably more still undiscovered (or maybe destroyed during building work when we weren't so educated about the need to learn from and maintain our history).


The actual use for the Broch remains debated.  Some believe they were defensive structures, allowing the occupants to remain safe from the invading hoards; some believe they were just houses, a style of house, a bit Georgian or Edwardian; whilst others believe they were status symbols (like a mansion on Mayfair).  Whatever their true use, our ancestors certainly built a lot of them, which was no mean feat.


The building itself was two concentric dry stone walls with the gap between containing a staircase to access other floors as well as small rooms and areas.  The broch would, probably, have had a thatched roof over the courtyard area in the centre to protect the inhabitants from the changeable Scottish weather.  There were, however, no windows to the outside - keeping the interior warm, but not necessarily helpful to see the invading hoards heading your way?

Small  doorway in Dunbeath Broch leading to the area between the 2 concentric walls

One of the small "rooms" in Dunbeath Broch

The Caithness Broch Project was set us to improve the promotion and preservation of Broch's within the county, and are doing an amazing job.  The website is a torrent of information about brochs (and other historical features) giving locations, directions and further information about the sites. 


They also intend to build a replica of an Iron Age Broch, which becomes the base for a Tourist Centre and Dry Stone Workshop - a genuine modern marvel. 


If you intend on visiting Caithness, make sure you check out their website at https://www.thebrochproject.co.uk/

by Vikki Brightman 29 Mar, 2022
The tale of the Selkie
by Vikki Brightman 25 Jan, 2022
Or that's what people believe.
by Vikki Brightman 30 Sept, 2021
Appreciating your ancestors.
by Vikki Brightman 02 Mar, 2021
Or learn from our mistakes!
by Vikki Brightman 26 Jan, 2021
Explore, explore, explore...
by Vikki Brightman 17 Jan, 2021
Off the beaten track.
by Vikki Brightman 30 Nov, 2020
The Annual Untangle...
by Vikki Brightman 18 Nov, 2020
Always expect the unexpected!
by Vikki Brightman 11 Nov, 2020
No trip to Caithness, or the North Coast 500, would be complete without a trip to the famous John O' Groats, and a picture by the sign. However, up until 1902, John O'Groats as a place didn't really exist - the area was all covered by is now lesser known neighbour Duncansby (a lesser known, but nevertheless beautiful place for another blog). The previous grocer, George Manson, in 1902, charged the name of the Post Office and postal district to John O'Groats (a shrewd marketing move) and was also the first person to import souvenirs (not from China!) for the tourists to by and take home. Prior to 1902, the most famous landmark in the area was "Johnny Groats House", as written about by Scotland's national bard, Robert Burns - a landmark seen on the early Ordnance Survey maps, but a landmark that has left no trace, but in the mind. The man, John O'Groats (Jan de Grot (Groot) to give him his proper name) was granted a charter by King James IV (1488 - 1513) of a ferry and lands at Duncansby in 1496. According to records, he ran the ferry until 1715 - a long running family business! The legend says that his seven descendants continuously quarreled about precedence so to resolve the quarreling John built a house with 8 doors, and a table with 8 sides, ensuring no one entered the house before anyone else, nor sat at the head of the table.
by Vikki Brightman 03 Nov, 2020
To continue our local tour of Caithness places, I decided (well, Jake made the final decision as I couldn't decide between Canisbay Kirk & John O'Groats) on Canisbay Kirk. Canisbay Kirk sits on a prehistoric mound, covering the ruins of a broch (a topic I will touch on in a later blog), the site of an earlier Celtic church dedicated to St. Drostan. Drostan headed a mission Pictland in the 6th century. There is mention of a church in church documentation of 1222. Legend says that the current steeple was erected on the site of a previous round tower, which would have been seperate to the small church of the time. The church, as it stands now, was erected around 1720.
Show More
Share by: